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CHAPTER IV 
EXPEDITION TO THE HIMALAYAS 
A MONG the many climbers who were stay- 
ing at Zermatt in the summer of 1891, 
was Sir Martin Conway—one of the most dis- 
tinguished of living mountaineers—to whom 
I owe a special debt of gratitude, both for 
the many times he has permitted me to 
share his climbs and for all he has done to 
improve my position in life. He had deter- 
mined to undertake an expedition to the 
Himalayas, and came to Zermatt on purpose 
to find a suitable guide. My brother Louis 
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